Monday

Today we visit Flössenberg, the site of the infamous concentration camp where Deitrich Bonhöffer was killed just two weeks before the camp was liberated in 1945. It was a difficult day. I am seldom affected by places and sites, but this sent me into a spiral. One enters the camp trough the same gate 100,000 others entered through. But they entered to a life and death of miserable horror. As one survivor put it, "There is a thin veneer of humanity that keeps us civilized.



Map of the Camp at Flössenberg

Upon arrival the prisoners were left to stand on the parade ground for hours. Only then would they be taken down to the "processsing room" where they were forced to remove all clothing, shed all personal effects, and shaved by other prisoners from head to toe. Then they were herded with beatings from rubber hoses into the shower room where they were hosed down with boiling water or ice cold water depending on the mood of the guards. Again, they were forced out onto the parade grounds to stand naked in scorching heat during the summer, or ice cold weather in winter. The nickname for the region is "Bavarian Siberia" and is hot during the summer and bitter cold during the winter. Those left standing after this first ordeal were sorted into various groups and sent to the barracks. The rest were shot.

Parade Ground

Each day was a misery. Each prisoner was deprived of his or her humanity and referred to only by number. An elaborate system of colored patches sewed on the jackets of the prisoners identified their origin and status: Jew, criminal, homosexual, hard labor, light labor etc. Over time that inhumanity took its toll. One survivor commented that the most heinous abuse came from the prisoners themselves. "Capo" were prisoners who were given charge over other prisoners. One "Capo" bragged about killing 10 prisoners a day. Beatings and degradation were so common as to become unnoticed.

Early in the camp's history, the prisoners were used at the quarry near Flössenberg to produce high quality stone to support Hitler's ambitious building projects. The work was deadly. Each day prisoners were lined up for roll call before first light. For hours they were counted, and then force marched a few kilometers to the quarry where they worked under the worst conditions with primitive tools to hew out granite blocks. At the end of the day they marched back to camp and stood on the parade ground for hours, again to be counted. Many did not survive. Later the prisoners largely worked in an armament factory producing airplane parts.

Guards murdered thousands of prisoners, often for no reason. The bodies were cremated in the local crematory, but later, a crematory was built on the site.

Guard Tower and Tunnel

A tunnel was built from the upper level to the crematory to make the transport of bodies more efficient.

The Crematory Oven

Bodies were stacked up like cordwood and shoved into the oven several at a time on a metal tray. Long hooks were used to adjust the bodies to burn more efficiently. Toward the end of the war, the crematory could not keep up with the pace of the killings and the bodies were stacked in the yard, doused with fuel, and burned in the open.

A pile of ashed remains as a memorial to the 30,000 known killed at Flössenberg.

The memorial pyramid of ashes

Like many important prisoners, Deitrich Bonhöffer was moved ahead of the advancing front away from the allied forces. He ended up in Flössenberg where he was interred in the barackes reserved for political prisoners of importance and special criminals. The outline of the barracks was excavated and can bee seen in the picture below. The window in the remaining wall of the barracks looks over the memorial garden


Bonhoeffer likely stayed in a cell similar to this one. A heavy wooden door leads to a small concrete room.


Bonhöffer was hanged in this courtyard only two weeks before the camp was liberated. I sat here for along time. I don't have many heroes in my life, but Bonhöeffer is certainly one of them. It is sad to ponder his death, but even more sad to be embraced by a place of such cruelty, despair, inhumanity and hopelessness. If we need any reason to cling to Christ and work for justice, this is it. We need these monuments to human horror to remind us just how thin our veneer of civilization can be. We must remember. We also must remember the courage, tenacity, and faith of people like Bonhöeffer who, in midst of suffering, proclaimed Christ.

There is much more here at Flössenberg and I encourage you to come here some day. In 2007 the main intake building was converted into a powerful permanent display of life in the camp, its history, and stories of those who lived and died there.

Sunday

Auferstehungs kirche in Fürth

Our day started cold and rainy (again) and we walked through the park to Auferstehungs kirche near Jean's Aunt Myra's flat. Worship was very familiar and lovely despite not being able to understand much of what was said. The regular pastors are on vacation, but the preaching was lively and fun to listen to. Jean's cousin interpreted a bit of the sermon after the service as we walked down this lane back to the flat.


The church was once far outside the city limits but now is in the middle of things. Years ago, the area had become blighted and the state held its annual Garden show on the site. The graves were moved to a new resting place outside the city limits, the area stripped, cleaned and planted with the beautiful park you see today. The church was preserved and has an active congregation. The name "Resurrection Church" seems fitting.
Myra brought Heiner home from the nursing home and we had a wonderful feast of chicken, pasta, and potatoes with the whole family. Later we took a stroll in the park adjacent to the flat where the flowers, including a particularly beautiful columbine were in bloom.

Strolling in the Park


Columbine in the park

We spent the rest of the day touring around Fürth. Jean and Christoph climbed a high tower where they could see for many miles despite the clouds and rain. My knee was not quite up to the climb so I hung around below and checked out the ancient ruins of the fort that once sat on the hill. It is strange to see things that were build 1000 years ago. it reminds me how young the US is!


View from the Tower

Each day seems to involve a time of coffee and kuchen (cake). Here we are in Fürth enjoying a plum cake and coffee at a local shop. It was cold so the server brought out a blanket for Jean. Fürth is very beautiful and has much of the old city intact. Before WWII the city was more open to Jewish families than other nearby cities. Legend has it that the allies spared much of Fürth for that reason.


Coffee at the Cafe


Christoph shared that this chimney has been the home of a pair of Storks for many years. After awhile, the chimney began to fail and the residents, concerned about the storks, collected over 8,000 Euro to restore it so that the storks could nest in peace.

We finished the day with the whole family at Mephisto's Restaurant in Fürth and a good night's sleep.

After breakfast we began to pack up to head to Fürth for our next adventure. After breakfast Herr Moser took us for a tour of his small cheese making facility right in the house where we are staying. We watched him cut the curd on his newest batch of cheese, and then he showed us the brining and aging room.

He can only sell his cheese right off the farm and not to local shops. More is the pity since he makes EXCELLENT cheese including cheese with peppers, walnuts, and other spices. We bought a rather generous selection before heading off to Fürth where the Bamlers live.

On the way home, we spent several hours in Rosenheim at the Garden show. The kids had a great time playing in the playground and we enjoyed many displays of garden prowess along the banks of the Innes River.

After the Garden show we headed to Fürth for a wonderful dinner cooked by Nika. The drive took us through the hill country past miles of emerald green fields and tiny towns. Some of beer making friends would have been jealous as we drove through the largest Hops making region in Germany. The long vines supported by tall poles are just beginning to creep up toward the sky. Later, the fragrant flowers will be harvested to make most excellent German Beer!

Friday (continued)

Herr Moser cooking fresh trout for the guests

Herr Moser bought fresh trout for the guests and is cooking them outside on the grill. Many Fridays he treats the guests this way and is a testament to thier fantastic hospitality.

Christoph "the brusher"

Christoph dived right in to help with the cooking and turned out to be a master with the butter brush. Guests contributed salads and other wonderful goodies to make a feast to end a perfect day. Of course, there is plenty of great beer flowing to accompany the kraut salad, potatoes, fish, steak, bratwurst other great food.

All the guests gather to feast

Herr Moser appeared with his homemade plum schnapps and we toasted to his health. The schnapps was deliciously smooth and finished off the evening nicely. It turns out that he is able to make schnapps because Frau Moser’s family inherited the license to do so. He can make only a certain number of liters per year for the enjoyment of his guests, but can’t sell it publically. Nike, (Christoph’s spouse) and I played a little music at evening’s end. I could listen to her sing Russian Folk Tunes all day.

Salzburg

The Trains are GREAT!


Jean enjoying her first Train Ride in Germany


Today we boarded the train to Salzburg, Austria. It was delightful to ride this clean, efficient train through the foothills of the Alps into Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart.

One of the Squares in Salzburg


Mozart's Birthplace

Most of the day was sent wandering the town and enjoying a visit to Die Festung Hohensalzburg. Construction on the fortress was begun in 1077 under Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein. The massive fortress broods over Salzburg like and overprotective father. We opted out of the long walk up and took the cable car up to the top in a matter of a few minutes. The first cable car to the top was installed in 1900!

A Stairway to the Tower at the Fortress

Salzburg is fascinating, and a day is hardly enough time to even whiff the deep-rooted history here. Certainly a week or more would not suffice, so we look forward to a return trip to uncover a few more of Salzburg’s mysteries. By the way, large groups of tourists are EVERYWHERE and usually accompanied by a tour guide holding a flag identifying the group. They move in great herds like bison on the plains of Kansas. We found a quick turn down a narrow side street avoided any unpleasantness. We had a pleasant hour-long ride home on the train and came home to a German style Potluck at the Baurhoff.

Thursday

Today we headed a few miles down the hill to enjoy the day at Chiemsee, a gorgeous lake community and home of King Ludwig’s Castle. The lake is very large and dotted with small islands. I imagine it must be great fun during the summer and offers all kinds of boating and other opportunities.

We boarded the ferry and began our Journey to Herren-Insel, the island where King Ludwig built a castle to honor the French by copying several rooms at Versailles.


Of the over 70 rooms at the castle, only 20 were completed before Ludwig’s death. The main rooms are incredibly opulent and ornate affairs. Alas, we were not allowed to take interior pictures, but I encourage you to look up the castle at http://www.herren-chiemsee.de/englisch/n_palace/index.htm. Strangely, none of the gorgeous and opulent rooms were ever used, nor were they ever intended to be used. Ludwig spent only ten days total in the palace and used his swimming pool sized tub only five times.


From Herren-Insel we headed to Frauen Insel on a 1926 side-wheeler.

As we approached the island sailboats were ghosting along in the light breeze. I would love to come back in later summer and spend a few days exploring the lake by Sailboat!

This small island is mostly a vacation island with quaint homes, restaurants, biergartens, and pottery shops. There is an interesting old church where Myra and I sat for some time enjoying the quiet.

Like many old churches here, the stone base of the doorway is cupped several inches from centuries of faithful feet walking across.

Nika cooked and excellent dinner for us at the Baurhoff and we ended the evening enjoying good beer and fellowship. Nika and I traded tunes on a guitar borrowed from Frau Moser. Nika has a rich alto voice and sang some wonderful Russian folk songs much to the delight of Frau Moser and the other guests gathered in the common room. It was a wonderful day!

Wednesday

The morning we left Hawaii there was a glorious rainbow arching over the Ko’olau Mountains. Its base shimmered at the end of our street. For the first time in my life I literally drove through the end of a rainbow, an auspicious beginning to our journey to be sure. After leaving Munich we headed to the Baurenhof of the Moser Family in Southern Bavaria. Greeted by Frau Möser, we shown our beautiful room on the second floor. I took this picture of a rainbow off our balcony-a little bit of Hawai’i right here in Bavaria.

The Baurhof is set in a lush green Valley near the town of Grainbach. It is a bed and breakfast affair with a common dining area on each floor. Frau Moser is a wonderful host and her husband is equally delightful. Each morning we are greeted with fresh breads, cheese made right on the farm, and a selection of hams, prosciutto, and other meets. What a great place to stay!

Off to Munich

After leaving the airport we drove straight to Munich to enjoy the beauty of this wonderful city. The weather is picture perfect if you like a bit of rain, cold and wind. We parked the cars at Nika's sister's home and took the train into the center city. Immediately we entered the square where Hitler began many marches and held many speeches. You can see the great lions gracing the entryway of the building. It is both beautiful and strange to walk in such history. Flanking the square is a beautiful park adjacent to the Municipal buildings. We stretched our legs and enjoyed the many couples and families enjoying a day at the park. The schools are on holiday so families are enjoying a day in the city. We then had coffee in a very old and quaint cafe just off the park. Jean is seen sitting with her Aunt Myra as we order coffee and cheesecake. It was WONDERFUL! Later we toured the city square and had weisswurst and my first German beer in a large biergarten surrounded by chestnut trees. Yes, there was an oompa band in the other room and a guy in Lederhosen at the next table.

The Adventure Begins

We had a surprisingly great flight to Germany. Perhaps the excitement dulled the hassle of all those hours on the plane, but we arrived in Munich pretty refreshed and not too jet-lagged. The Munich airport is dead quiet and clean to the point of sterility. Hospitals would rejoice to achieve such silence and cleanliness. A quick show of the passport and down to collect our baggage. Jean's cousin Christoph picked us up at the airport with his mom, wife and two kids. We are glad to be here and very excited to be here in Germany. Sorry for the delay in the post, we have been away from the computer for several days (see next entry)

We are finally on our way. We had a beautiful landing. In San Francisco. A rare clear morning. On to Dulles. Next

Four years ago our daughter and son threw us a party for our twenty-fifth anniversary. She organized a generous shower of gifts from friends and family to send us to Germany for our anniversary. One thing led to another, a lost job, a move to the middle of the Pacific, work and just plain life got in the way and the trip was postponed. In a couple of days we finally get to take our trip of a life.