Sunday

Our day began in worship at the American Church in Berlin. This ecumenical ministry with ELCA ties has been a wonderful resource for Ex-pat Americans and people from world. The current Pastor is rostered in the ELCA. The day we worshiped, there were several groups visiting ACB including a group of German pastors who had completed their training and were headed all over the world to serve in ministry. Many U.S., Canadian, and other English speaking students find a comfortable home in this ministry. We were grateful for the opportunity to get to know a few people!

The Tour Group in front of the Church




The American Church Berlin

The church has only been in this building for a few years and was fortunate to find such a wonderful space not too far from the city. They are trying to raise money for renovations and ministry. Unlike German Lutheran Churches, ACB received no support from the government and must rely on its members and friends for support.

The altar area

The morning we worshipped there were two adult baptisms and an affirmation of Baptism.

People greet one another after the service

We then traveled a short bus trip to Wittenberg, often called the cradle of the Reformation. Our evening was free and I spent some time with our bus driver, Karl. Then we walked through the old town taking the opportunity to photograph some of the sites without the tourist crowds around. (EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday)

Berlin

I arrived in Berlin this morning about 11:00 am and waited at the airport until the rest of the tour arrived a 3:15 pm. Everyone made it fine and we met our tour guide, Al Hargreaves at the airport. Everyone is very nice and had no trouble with any of their flights. We boarded the luxury tour bus and took a lightening tour of Berlin with our East German tour guide Sylvia.



The group listening to our tour guide

Berlin is a fascinating city, and our short tour did little more than whet our appetites to return to this historic place. I will say that a tour bus is NO way to tour. (Personal opinion) Is seems bizaar to sit behind dark smoked glass gazing out at the city passing by. Every alley reveals a gorgeous building or inviting park, but poof, you pass it by. I have very much enjoyed our walking tours last week with patient and knowledgable Christoph. We truly had the opportunity to SEE and experience the places we visited. Enough whining, on with the tour.

Pictures from behind the glass are garbage, so I did not bother. We did see several parks, monuments, historic buildings etc. flash by. Use your imagination.

Eventually we arrived at a the Bebelplatz where were supposed to take in the sites. Alas, a huge event was underway and we were not able to see the square. However, here is a pic of a HUGE Catholic Church (St.-Hedwigs-Kathedale)

St.-Hedwigs-Kathedale

Back on the bus and off through winding crowded streets to the Brandenburg Gate. Look, a statue, oh, I missed. Oh, what a beautiful par..... oops, off we we go. Isn't that a gorgeous....darn, that bus is in the way. Wow, did you see the architecture on that church,... or was it an office building. Oh good, the bus is stopping so we can get off.

Finally we are at the gate where we hear about the political and historic significance of the Gate. The Berlin Wall snaked just outside this gate and was a significant symbol of power.


The Gate and Fountain

The wall was fortified outside the gate because it was believed that the Americans, if they ever tried to tear down the wall, would come through the Brandenburg Gate. As our tour guide noted, such a notion is ludicrous since army generals seldom select a convenient funnel through which to direct their troops.


The Brandenburg Gate


Note the tall communications tower that served East Germany



The Fernsehturm built around 1965 by the GDR
Note what is formed by the late afternoon sun on the ball- Yes, a cross


I did not get a picture of it, but there was a tourist gig where everyone sat around a square bar. Under every seat are bicycle pedals. Everyone buys a beer, and then helps pedal around the square while drinking beer. Brilliant!


We then walked through the Holocaust Monument which sits nearlyu in the shadow of the Brandenburg gate. Designed by designed by architect Peter Eisenman and engineer Buro Happold the 4.7 acre site is dominated by huge square blocks. Set in an undulating valley the stones each represent a number of persons killed in the Holocaust. The architect received some criticism for commemorating all the victims of the holocaust rather than just Jews who died. It is a moving and strange experience. People were taking thier pictures, strolling, eating lunch, and just lounging. One couple spent several minutes having their photo taken while they kissed. Love on the Holocaust plaza. But then again, love is what we need more of these days. Where better to share a loving embrace than in the middle of the place where hate paraded so proudly, a death ruled so absolutely

The Holocaust Monument

Friday in the Garden

Nürnburg to do some shopping. Not to put too fine a point on it but I have needed a new pair of Birkenstock shoes for some time and thought I should buy them in Germany since the shoes are manufactured here. We have looked all over Bavaria to no avail. One would think it would not be too hard to find German shoes in Germany. Alas, I finally hunted down a brown pair and a green pair in my size in Nürmberg. Actually, I suppose Birkenstock are available, we just didn't seem to hit the right stores. There was a BRIGHT RED pair on the sale rack that I thought would be perfect for Pentecost, but Jean noted that I seldom wear shoes in church, so I skipped it.

We returned to Fürth and joined the Bamlers at their garden at the edge of town. I had no idea what to expect and was delighted to find a little garden community complete with cabins, lawns, and planting areas. The city set aside the land for these gardens to help residents experience the outdoors and give them a place to garden. Often referred to as SCHREBER Gardens, residents can apply to a waiting list, and when an owner decides to sell, they may buy the cabin etc. The land is owned by the city, and the garden owners pay a lease per year. Each garden has a small cabin with electricity, water, and sewage, and a generous area that is to be divided into one third each garden, lawn, and cabin. Some of the gardens are quite ornate with fairly elaborate cabins, but most are simple wholesome places for people to enjoy the outdoors. When the owner tires of the garden, or dies, the cabin is then sold to the next person on the list if they are interested in your garden. It is a neat, sustainable model.
Nika and Christoph have a beautiful garden with vegetables, flowers, a playhouse, and a very nice cabin with a simple kitchen and bathroom. We relaxed...


Jean Relaxing


Jeff Relaxing

We also ate a wonderful dinner of bratwurst, chicken, pork, salad just picked from the garden, bread, potatoes, and plum cake. (Also chocolate cake, gummi bears, tea and BEER)



Christoph Cooking Dinner on the Weber Grill



We truly enjoyed sitting on the porch and enjoying the outdoors while eating Nikas EXCELLENT food. I have no poscture of Nika cooking because she never stops moving long enough to snap a photo. Thank you Nika for being such a wonderful a beautiful hostess!!
All the wood you see behind us is an oak tree that fell in a storm. They cut it up and use it in a woodstove at home.



Flowers in the Garden

It seems to me that every community should have some model like this. I was struck by what a gift it would be for apartment dwellers and condo owners to have a chance to garden without having to own a piece of the suburbs. We certainly found the day refreshing. Dänke!
Away home to pack. I leave our family and Bavaria to meet my tour in Berlin in the morning. I hope to be able to keep up the blog, but it will depend on time and internet availability.

The Burgenstrasse

One of the beautiful valleys of the Fränkische Schweiz


Christoph and family took us on a journey through the Fränkische Schweiz (Frankonian Switzerland) along the Burgenstrasse. The road winds through deeply forested hills and follows an idealic stream with gentle waterfalls and quiet pools. Yep, it is a little bit of heaven. Most remarkable, however, is that the apparent hobby of the medieval times seemed to be castle building. Around nearly every bend it seems the gentry built yet another castle. Some have been restored and are in use as residences or museums, others are ruins ravaged by time and salvaging. Coming from a largely castle deficit U.S., the Burgenstrasse is trip into fantasy land.

Our first stop took us through the quaint and beautiful town of Streitburg. The houses are traditional construction, well-cared for, and quite lovely. Like many of these small towns, there are Gasthofs (guest houses) which are like small hotels with a beer garden attached. One would not go far wrong to spend a month or so hopping around the Gastofs of each town for a month or so!

The Entrance to Streitburg Ruins

After driving up a steep hill we parked in a parking lot and walked behind a private residence to be greeted by the entrance to old castle The home owner has a lovely garden populated by....wait for it...... garden dwarves. O Tolkien my Tolkien! I fully expected Bilbo Baggins to pop out and ask me if I might have a bit of second breakfast on hand for wandering hobbit.



The Village of Streitburg


There is very little left of the old castle, but one can not help but be impressed with work that it must have taken to cut stones and lay them for so huge an enterprise. Myra told us that castles like Streitburg fell into disuse and the stones were salvaged by townsfolk to build homes far below. Recycling rules. The photo above is taken from the Streitburg ruins and is a castle across the valley. The castles were built close enough that they might be able to signal each other.


A bit late we went on to the Castle von Stauffenburg. You may recognize the name from the movie "Valkyrie" starring Tom Cruise. The family is very old and still resides in the Castle. The character from the movie never lived in the castle, but did stay there occasionally. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed in the castle. The ancient rooms are very impressive as is the HUGE collection of weapons and armament from the middle ages through WWII. Pistols, swords, canon, pikes, rifles, bombs, uniforms, armor, and pennant from every age adorn the walls of the first three rooms.


We await our Guide at von Stauffenburg


von Stauffenburg Castle


The Courtyard

In the photograph above you will notice a small nook where the well is situated. The well is, of course, hand dug and took over 100 years to finish. It is 93 meters (305 feet) deep. At one point, the laborers encountered deadly gasses in the pit and had to light a log on one side of the hole to draw fresh air enough to continue working. The guide poured water into the well and it took a LONG TIME to hit the bottom.

The rest of the tour was equally fascinating. Suffice to say there are LOTS of antlers, boar hides, weapons, and stuffed birds. The gentry had a lot of time to pursue their favorite passion, hunting.


Our next stop took us to a Höhlenruine Reisenburg. The area is full of caves and beautiful rock formations. Jean, Christoph, Nika and the kids scrambled up a million steps to get the photos you see here. Myra and I wisely relaxed in the car below. My torn up knee will only tolerate so much.







Along the way we enjoyed the fantastic sites of castles everywhere. It was time for coffee and cake (a daily ritual) to avoid Myra and I revolting.


Another town, another castle


Another town, yet another castle


The Train

We finished our tour overlooking this incredible ruin. A small train, usually pulled by a steam engine winds its way along this valley picking up and dropping off hikers. Kids were hanging off the caboose and having a great time. Next time we come we will definitely ride the train.

The Burgenstrasse is an amazing area with activities for just about everyone. We saw kayakers, hikers, bikers riding down the valley on a dedicated trail, fly fishing and site seeing. All these activities are punctuated with nice little beer gardens serving excellent German beer at every turn. Not a bad way to spend the day.

Wednesday

Today we did absolutely NOTHING. There, now I am caught up.

Tuesday in Nuremberg

Oberlandesgericht in Nuremberg

Our day began with a drive to Nurmenberg to the Palace of Justice, known especially as the site of the Nuremberg Trials following WWII. Initially, other sites were considered including a site in Poland and one in Berlin. Eventually the Oberlandesgericht Nuremberg was chosen because it was largely intact from bombing and had a large prison attached.

We then took the subway to central Nuremberg and walked to the Nürnberger Burg. As one enters the walls one encounters the Albrecht Dürer house just inside the gate. Dürer was an exceptional artist and thinker who spent time with the likes of Melanchton and other great thinkers of his time. He was a pioneer in art and is credited with being the first to do a self portrait or depict natural subjects in detail. The tour is delightful and available in English.


Albrecht Dürer House

The house has been used in many ways over the centuries since Dürer lived there, but many artifacts still remain. He was, to say the least, an industrious and inventive artist concerned with both art and science. He undertook to write a text book outlining his methods of measuring the human body in an attempt to define beauty. Unlike many artists of his time, he was not interested in using pattern books or established methods to make art. He insisted on discovering new art methods. His wife Agnes ran the business and the household throughout Dürer's career.



Press in the Workshop

Dürer's main workshop would have had several apprentices and workers producing woodcuts and copper engravings to Dürer's precise instructions. Paints, glues, and coatings were all produced in the workshop from ingredients from around the world.


Dürer's Workshop


We then climbed up to the Castle and walked around the impressive walls of this ancient edifice. We decided to skip the interior tour as many of the rooms are now empty. The Castle features great blocks of sandstone in its construction.

The Castle Gate

The Tower

The view from the castle is wonderful. Today was rainy so there were not too many tourists milling about.



Detail of Lock

Ok, I am facinated by these wonderful old locks. These things are HUGE! THis one measured about 24" square and is beautifully ornate.


We then walked the streets of Nuremberg and enjoyed typical architecture. Nuremburg was bombed extensively so one finds both traditional and more modern interpretations of architecture throughout the city.


Traditional Architecture on the street where the Butchers used to practice their trade




Bombed out ruins next to restored homes



Walking around the City.

WE walked around the Pegnitz river and enjoyed the sites. Later we walked to the city square and took in the churches. St. Sebald (1525) was unfortunately closed for organ tuning.

St. Sebald, Nuremberg


Later we walked to St. Lorenz Kirche and were able to go inside. I am always struck by the difference between Lutheran and Catholic churches of this era. Lutheran churches, while plenty ornate, lack the gold, and over the top ornamentation of many Catholic Churches of the time.



St. Lorenz Church

One of the sculptures in the church depicts the history of Christianity in a three-story sculpture carved from a single stone.

Adam Kraft Sculpture



Detail of Adam Kraft Sculpture


Organ in the Lorenzkirche

Another wonderful Day in Germany

Monday

Today we visit Flössenberg, the site of the infamous concentration camp where Deitrich Bonhöffer was killed just two weeks before the camp was liberated in 1945. It was a difficult day. I am seldom affected by places and sites, but this sent me into a spiral. One enters the camp trough the same gate 100,000 others entered through. But they entered to a life and death of miserable horror. As one survivor put it, "There is a thin veneer of humanity that keeps us civilized.



Map of the Camp at Flössenberg

Upon arrival the prisoners were left to stand on the parade ground for hours. Only then would they be taken down to the "processsing room" where they were forced to remove all clothing, shed all personal effects, and shaved by other prisoners from head to toe. Then they were herded with beatings from rubber hoses into the shower room where they were hosed down with boiling water or ice cold water depending on the mood of the guards. Again, they were forced out onto the parade grounds to stand naked in scorching heat during the summer, or ice cold weather in winter. The nickname for the region is "Bavarian Siberia" and is hot during the summer and bitter cold during the winter. Those left standing after this first ordeal were sorted into various groups and sent to the barracks. The rest were shot.

Parade Ground

Each day was a misery. Each prisoner was deprived of his or her humanity and referred to only by number. An elaborate system of colored patches sewed on the jackets of the prisoners identified their origin and status: Jew, criminal, homosexual, hard labor, light labor etc. Over time that inhumanity took its toll. One survivor commented that the most heinous abuse came from the prisoners themselves. "Capo" were prisoners who were given charge over other prisoners. One "Capo" bragged about killing 10 prisoners a day. Beatings and degradation were so common as to become unnoticed.

Early in the camp's history, the prisoners were used at the quarry near Flössenberg to produce high quality stone to support Hitler's ambitious building projects. The work was deadly. Each day prisoners were lined up for roll call before first light. For hours they were counted, and then force marched a few kilometers to the quarry where they worked under the worst conditions with primitive tools to hew out granite blocks. At the end of the day they marched back to camp and stood on the parade ground for hours, again to be counted. Many did not survive. Later the prisoners largely worked in an armament factory producing airplane parts.

Guards murdered thousands of prisoners, often for no reason. The bodies were cremated in the local crematory, but later, a crematory was built on the site.

Guard Tower and Tunnel

A tunnel was built from the upper level to the crematory to make the transport of bodies more efficient.

The Crematory Oven

Bodies were stacked up like cordwood and shoved into the oven several at a time on a metal tray. Long hooks were used to adjust the bodies to burn more efficiently. Toward the end of the war, the crematory could not keep up with the pace of the killings and the bodies were stacked in the yard, doused with fuel, and burned in the open.

A pile of ashed remains as a memorial to the 30,000 known killed at Flössenberg.

The memorial pyramid of ashes

Like many important prisoners, Deitrich Bonhöffer was moved ahead of the advancing front away from the allied forces. He ended up in Flössenberg where he was interred in the barackes reserved for political prisoners of importance and special criminals. The outline of the barracks was excavated and can bee seen in the picture below. The window in the remaining wall of the barracks looks over the memorial garden


Bonhoeffer likely stayed in a cell similar to this one. A heavy wooden door leads to a small concrete room.


Bonhöffer was hanged in this courtyard only two weeks before the camp was liberated. I sat here for along time. I don't have many heroes in my life, but Bonhöeffer is certainly one of them. It is sad to ponder his death, but even more sad to be embraced by a place of such cruelty, despair, inhumanity and hopelessness. If we need any reason to cling to Christ and work for justice, this is it. We need these monuments to human horror to remind us just how thin our veneer of civilization can be. We must remember. We also must remember the courage, tenacity, and faith of people like Bonhöeffer who, in midst of suffering, proclaimed Christ.

There is much more here at Flössenberg and I encourage you to come here some day. In 2007 the main intake building was converted into a powerful permanent display of life in the camp, its history, and stories of those who lived and died there.